Nope, not the amazing movie staring John Travolta and Nicholas Cage, just a little bit of code for an upcoming art installation we are working on, which will feature extracting your face, and placing it on top of a 3d model ( that will then have a conversation with you ).
With the release of unity 5, getting together some code (open-ni, Kinect unity etc. ) that map open-ni bones to unity data. it gets a little wonky with the leg bones, but as a proof of concept, it’s working well.
The Dewalt DW611 hand router sports super powerful 1.25 HP motor, and adjustable speed of 7 – 20k RPM, making it an ideal router to mount on the shapeoko. The problem is that it’s too big to fit in the included router mount, or any mount that directly bolts on to the shapeoko. I modeled a mount that uses the supplied hex bolts but in a fashion that allows the mount to wrap around the router. You can download the mount here from thingyverse
Over the last few months I’ve had some great successes and miserable failures while using my makerbot. Here is a quick synopsis of some of things pointers I’ve picked up.
Use normal sized painter tape – the full sided sheets that makerbot provides lacks good enough adhesive to too keep larger pieces locked to the build plate. I’ve found that the heat tends to bubble the sheet and cause the piece to curl and print unevenly. I’ve gotten the best results using Scotchblue painters tape and applying in thin strips, it seems to allow each piece of tape to expand and contract individually without raising off the plate.
Longer is better than larger – pieces that take up a large portion of the build plate tend to curl at the edges, this creates errors in the printing that tend to compound as the piece builds. I’ve tried many different approaches to prevent this, but it seems none have worked. So far the only solution had been to rotate the model so that the long dimension is the vertical dimension.
Double Check your model before you print – this might seem like a no-brainer but on more than one occasion I have started a print, only to realize that I forgot something half way through.
I’m currently working on a project that involves creating an enclosure for a circuit board. The hole layout has proven to be a little tricky … I tried measuring everything with a caliper, but the holes on the print were off just enough for the mounting screws not to fit. I then came across this set of really useful tools. It contains a python script that will convert you Eagle files into a Rhino model.
Recently I endeavored to renovate a bathroom. There was some apparent leakage in tub that manifested it’s self as a stain in the ceiling below. We pulled the ceiling down to access the pipes, and in the process discovered quite a mess. It’s no secret that plumbers are often notorious for hacking through floor joist to lay pipe, but the mess that this plumber made was pretty unbelievable. it turns out he hacked thought all 4 of the floor joist that were supporting the tub for the toilet pipe to fit through. Rather than cut a hole, he notched one joist so far that only an inch of material was left. The result was the remaining joists provided little to no support for the bathtub and bathroom floor. Since we will be putting a layer of plywood, a layer of concrete board, and tile atop the existing floor, we figured it would be a good idea to over engineer and sister all four joists. The existing joists were 2 x 8 x 16, actual dimensions (lumber used to be actual dimensions). The new 2 x 8 x 16 are actually 1.5 x 7.5 x 16 so it makes it easy to fit them up next to the existing joists. We pre- drilled 10 holes, then used construction cement and 3″ lag bolts to “glue and screw” each joist. Where the pipes were involved, we made a shallow notch and capped the top with a specially designed “mending plate” that sits over the top of the pipe. The resulting floor is strong enough to hold 4 bathtubs. If your interested in loads and spans, you can check out this pdf from the american wood councel or this online calculator
When I first got my makerbot I couldn’t figure out where to put it. Finally I settled on the spot above my tool chest, It’s the perfect height, perfect size and it sits in a spot thats well ventilated (although ventilation is not really an issue when printing the PLA filament with the replicator 2). I found that the filament kept getting stuck /binding and I would end up with a partially printed file. It also made it pain to change out the filament, because it was in the corner. I ended up printing out a modified version of this spool I adding a hole in Rhino and removed the tab, then mounted it to the wall. The result lets me quickly swap out filament without disturbing the machine. Feast your eyes ….
This was a quick experiment using a webcam and a raspberry pi to capture time-lapse footage. We used the GPIO pins and a motor driver to trigger the stepper and capture the frame data from the webcam. The results were ok, but we found that the steps were not sufficient for a smooth video, a simple geared down servo would work much better.